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      12-24-2024, 05:27 PM   #4
GuidoK
#buildnotbought
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Drives: Z4 3.0i ESS TS2+
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Tinkering in the garage

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Do you rate watches by looks or technical or horological parameters? Or investment value (better said: how much they loose ).

I think from a horological/technical pov the breitling is not much special. ETA based movement, expensive for what you get. Most Breitlings aren't that special imo. The navitimer maybe.

The Tag Heuer has a Selita made movement (but I think it's bespoke for Tag?). Nice watch, not too expensive but not as special as the Omega and Tudor.

Both the Tudor and Omega have a more exclusive movement with adjustment screws on the balancewheel instead of the more normal quick set regulator. It gives it a more higher tier vibe.
The Omega is expensive but has a nice looking movement, and I assume a helium escape valve? So it gives the feel of a higher performance watch whether you need it or not.
I don't like S&G bracelets, so I'd never choose the Tudor, but that's personal. I'd take the normal one.

But Grand Seiko have both a spring drive GMT and a 36000BPH GMT, which are insane movements (also some more normal movements and cheaper GMT's). Both obviously in house movements.
The dials and hands are stunning. What I like about the hands is that they mask off the center rivet (some don't have these hands, but most of them do). I don't know how they make those, but it gives a feel as if they were CNC made out of a billet and they make hands of other brands immediately look very cheap, made out of stamped sheet and a rivet in the middle. Only watches in the highest priceclasses (PP, Lange&Söhne etc) have nice polished solutions for this.
The only downside of GS is I think that a lot of the cases look bulky due to fairly big lugs (even though some GMT's are 40mm) or are bulky (44mm case gmt's). When I saw them in person, first thing I thought was...that's a big watch (but my wrists are small)
But if you look closely at dial, hands, caseline polishing, movement etc, they're in a different class. If they were swiss, they would fall in the 30k+ priceclass (the spring drives and 36000bph ones that is).

What I mean with the hands:

Grand Seiko, the seconds hands also has way more depth as if the hand itself is round, not flat:
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Every other watch, flat sheet (sometimes with a fold in the middle) and a visible rivet in the center:
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Z4 3.0i | ESS TS2+ supercharger | Quaife ATB LSD | Brembo/BMW performance BBK front/rear | Schrick FI cams | Schmiedmann headers+cats | Powerflex/strongflex PU bushings | Vibra-technics engine mounts | H&R anti rollbars | KW V3 coilovers/KW camber plates | Sachs race engineering clutch | tons of custom sh#t

Last edited by GuidoK; 12-24-2024 at 05:42 PM..
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